Two Sublimely Stylish Places To Stay

There are a variety of “firsts” and “onlys” connected to Barcelona’s Hotel Neri, a trendy bolt-hole on the good-looking Plaza Sant Felip Neri. It was the primary boutique resort within the Gothic Quarter. It continues to be the one member of Relais & Châteaux within the metropolis. Its designer, Cristina Gabas, was a pioneer (again in 2003) of “maximalist” extravagance in inns.

That’s loads to stay as much as, however the resort, owned by the second technology of an area household of hoteliers, greater than lives as much as all of it. The design is beautiful, the service is relaxed however on-point, the breakfast is tasty, and the atmosphere is a beguiling mix of the traditional and the modern.

The constructing, in its present format, was constructed within the 18th century, when two constructions had been joined collectively. One of these is a medieval palace that dates from the twelfth century, and its unique sgraffito (architectural wall ornament—one of the crucial essential in Barcelona) was restored. But at numerous factors of the restorations and interventions, the employees found Byzantine pillars and Roman ruins beneath. (One can solely think about the byzantine forms that adopted.) The place has borne witness to your entire historical past of the Gothic Quarter, and of Barcelona as an entire.

It might have turn into a museum-like interval piece. Instead, Gabas went for “brutal honesty,” leaving the unique constructions seen of their various states of intactness and decay, and mixing them with vivid colours and modern furnishings from native craftspeople, such because the lamps by Victor Paniagua within the reception space and the couch by Asunción Latorre. This mixing of the traditional and the avant-garde has since turn into fairly modern, however within the early days, it was rarity.

Just as a result of it’s much less distinctive doesn’t imply it’s not particular. In 2011 designer Virginia Figueras added her personal imprint on the place, invoking the multicultural Barcelona lifestyle. There’s the sandy colour of the unique stone, juxtaposed with a lavender-and-magenta rug and a vivid orange rocking chairs. Photographs from the “La Mirada Transúente” assortment add to the creative attraction.

Upstairs, the 22 rooms are not any much less fashionable, with their mixture of shapes, textures and colours. Some of them have giant murals made with gold and silver leaf. Others, the “deluxe,” have terraces with outside bathtubs or showers—this within the coronary heart of the town. (Sadly, a spring rain saved me from testing mine out.)

Just a few blocks away, its sister resort, the Wittmore, has a really totally different vibe. (A staffer will shuttle over your luggage in case you determine, as I did, to separate your time between the 2 inns.) Reopened earlier this 12 months after a two-year renovation—extra conceptual than bodily—the resort evokes a cultural salon of the earlier century, or possibly a speakeasy.

In their language, it evokes a “beyond the pale” sense of freedom, and the sensation of a spot the place “the most flamboyant locals and avant-garde of society’s bourgeoisie would hang out.” There’s an leisure program and a vibrant restaurant—we’ll get to that—but additionally some bodily reminders of that. The refurbishment, led by Septiembre Arquitectura, did away with the British reserve of the previous design and added heat with pure supplies just like the raffia used to weave the panels within the library.

There’s a vertical backyard, one of many largest in Barcelona, that’s seen from all the 22 rooms. And there’s an impressive rooftop terrace, with views over the outdated neighborhood, landscaping with plant species which might be discovered alongside Catalan rivers and, impressively, a pool. By evening, and by request, it may be privatized as an extension of the suite, full with a picnic basket with the whole lot wanted to take pleasure in an evening of “camping” on the roof.

Accessible to everybody, the Contraban restaurant is the soul of the undertaking, with Alain Guiard’s menu of “restless invention.” He aimed to seize the “textures of impatience,” with a sequence of dishes which might be ordered and consumed shortly, like selfmade charcuterie, pork-belly cracklings, pigs’ trotters, pistachios and pickles. He went for “artistic freedom” with all-day snacks, such because the brioche with spicy tomato, ricotta and Iberian fennel chorizo, and the oxtail sandwich with tapenade cream cheese.

It retains going. He evokes the “feeling of going blank” with easy combos of flavors like eggplant with pine honey and pine nuts, and baked cauliflower served in lemon and tahini. The “creative exhilaration” part consists of vegetable carpaccios that resemble a painter’s canvas, and the “frustration” portion options dishes that require a servers’ assist to launch a “blockage” of edible obstacles, just like the beetroot cooked in a clay crust, served with cream cheese and truffle sauce.

There are additionally segments for “surprise” and “nostalgia” and oddball desserts just like the “Dracula vampire ice-lolly.” It all appears like a stunt, however the whole lot I attempted was as scrumptious because it was conceptual. And positively a “first” and “only” of its personal.

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